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How To Go From Black To Blonde-The Right Way! According To A Colorist

Writer's picture: Lyndsie MooreLyndsie Moore

So it’s summer, and who doesn’t want to go blonde? I mean it’s seriously like the most common thing in the hair industry; going light in the summer! And there is definitely a right way to do this; just like there is a wrong way. I am a licensed cosmetologist, who owns and operates a private in home studio salon. My specialty is “fashion color” or “vivid color” And before you can have a fashion/vivid color, you have to go completely through the blonding process. So this is my most had discussion in the studio! “How to go blonde and beyond.”

Just for the sake of explanation, let’s say your hair is currently black. All hair goes through the same lifting process. I explain it to my clients like this: hair is layered like a scaly onion. Blonde is essentially the “clear” inner most piece of hair. To get to the inner most “clear” piece of the hair you have to get through the outer most black/brown pigment, then the red pigment, then the orange pigment, and lastly the yellow pigment. Basically you are using lightener to lift out the natural or artificial pigments to expose the inner most “clear.”

So let’s talk about this in a practical sense, not just a theoretical sense. Say, you walk into the salon and your hair is black, artificial or natural, and you want to go platinum or even “fashion” or “vivid,” what should you expect? Your stylist is going to tell you “yeah sure!” but she’s also going to tell you that you will have to be realistic in your goals. This cannot be done in one hour, it usually cannot be done in one day, it HAS to be done in multiple processes. The amount of sessions/processes it takes is dependent on the current condition of your hair, the artificial color you have on your hair (if you do), and how well your hair lifts (your hair could naturally hold on tightly to pigment or it could let go of it easily, this is just a natural part of individuality of your hair type.)

The biggest reasons you can’t get it completed in one session/one day is:

1.) Your hair’s integrity (health/strength) cannot make it through the trauma of the lightening process, or

2.) Your stylist has a busy work schedule (clients after you that day), or

3.) Your budget doesn’t match your hair goals. This is nothing that should offend you! This means your stylist cares more about the integrity of your hair; essentially how beautiful you look when you leave, than the amount of money she could potentially charging you. This is a sign of a good stylist!

The exception to this is, if your hair is virgin (meaning there has NEVER been artificial color on it) and you are willing to sit in the chair for many, many hours, and pay many, many dollars. The example I use most in this case is: If you want to come in black and leave white in one day, like one of Guy Tang’s clients, you are going to have to be realistic, and be ready to pay “Guy Tang” prices. The reason I say this to my clients is because Guy takes one single client per day. Those clients come in and get multiple sessions back to back to back. His clients are sitting there for HOURS; I’m talking like coming in around 10 and not leaving until 1 or 2 the next morning. This takes commitment from both the client and the stylist. You have to think about paying for the products they have to use on those multiple processes and you have to pay for the stylist’s time. This is a long time to be standing in one spot, and away from their family; and their time is valuable, and worth being paid for.

More often you will get multiple sessions across multiple appointments. This is actually the most beneficial for you. This keeps your hair healthy and will keep you from paying an exorbitant amount at once. This means that you will need to pick out a few different looks that you like on the way to your blonde bombshell goal! I always suggest my clients find something that they like in the red family, then the golden blonde family, then on to their goal. This is the best way to keep your hair healthy and luxurious!

This is the real advice that I give my real clients. Try to keep this in mind when you go to your stylist, or want to sit in my chair.

Stay safe, stay rad, and wash your DANG hands!

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